For a few years I'd heard stories about the bottomless powder and the empty slopes that have turned Gulmarg into an almost mythical phenomenon, so this year, along with Scott Flavelle, I decided to check it out myself and see what all the fuss was about....
Five flights and a hefty excess baggage bill later, I found myself (with 16 pairs of skis) in a small Inuit village at the end of a frozen fjord on the east coast of Greenland, surrounded by apartment block-size icebergs, dogsleds and gun wielding Inuit seal hunters.
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