Ice bergs, Whale blubber and mind blowing skiing.

James Morland •

Things were looking a little shaky to start when I discovered that the group's skis, which we had sent three weeks earlier, were not safely in Greenland as TNT had promised, but were sitting in some Danish port gathering dust. Sixteen people were about to arrive in Greenland to go heli skiing with no skis and a trip that had been over a year in the planning, and cost the price of a small house, was crumbling around us.

Five flights and a hefty excess baggage bill later, I found myself (with 16 pairs of skis) in a small Inuit village at the end of a frozen fjord on the east coast of Greenland, surrounded by apartment block-size icebergs, dogsleds and gun wielding Inuit seal hunters. Surreal would be an understatement.

At least we had skis but things were still looking pretty bleak. To start with, one of our helicopters was stuck in bad weather on the south coast. It was also unseasonably warm, had just rained, and the forecast was poor. Indeed, the faces coming in from the first afternoon told it all - survival skiing in flat light and glue-like snow.

A few of the guys headed out that evening to drown their sorrows in the local bar and came back with the looks of changed men on their faces. None of us can be quite sure as to the entirety of what they witnessed but we did hear stories about one of their number nearly having his face bitten off by a (fortunately) toothless local, looking to add to the gene pool.

The next day looked like it was shaping up to be even worse but the clouds broke that afternoon and the guys got out after lunch. Incredibly, the combination of a subtle overnight temperature drop and access to some of the higher landings was all it took to make the difference and there were nothing but ear to ear grins and free flowing champagne that night. From there things went from good to better to extraordinary and culminated with perfect weather, great snow, champagne drinking ceremonies on icebergs and skiing to the beach. I think it's fair to say that this was a trip that will stand out as something very special for those who took part.

Greenland is an amazing place to heliski but it cannot be over-stated that this is expedition-style heli skiing in a seriously remote environment and there are many more uncontrollable variables to take into account than you would find at established heliski bases.

For more details contact James Morland +44 7900 241 591.


 
Snow on deciduous trees in Japan

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skier in Svalbard

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